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BIS Certification for Worsted Shawls


The Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS)

The BIS is a statutory body established by the virtue of the BIS Act, 2016. The provisions of the Bureau of Indian Standards Act, 1986 and the Rules and Regulations adopted intends to regulate the usage of a Standardized Mark. This Standard Mark when added to products portray Indian Standards and signifies the assurance that those products have been produced in accordance with the requirements of that standard under a well-defined inspection, testing, and quality control system. The system that has been developed is managed by BIS and used by the producer. As an additional measure of protection, BIS continuously checks standard-marked products for compliance with that standard. The Bureau of Indian Standards can provide information on the requirements for granting manufacturers or producers a licence to use the Standard Mark.

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The BIS has contributed to the national economy's traceability and tangibility in a number of ways, including by offering safe, high-quality products, reducing consumer health risks, promoting imports as a substitute for exports, reducing the spread of varieties, and more through standardisation, certification, and testing.

Why Do Worsted Shawls Need A BIS Registration?

Just like any other product, worsted material is involved in the business where the contact and communication would ultimately be with the common public. It is the sole responsibility of a manufacturer to ensure his goods are safe to use. In order to ensure the same, the BIS conducts relevant tests to determine qualities like shrinking capacity, ability to hold colour, mass etc. Following are a few points that determine the need for a worsted fabric to be BIS Registered-

  • The certification will assist in preventing Worsted Shawl adulteration.
  • A BIS license will defend the rights of local artisans and nomads who generate the raw materials for Worsted Shawls.
  • Ensure that customers are provided with pure Worsted Shawls.
  • Encourage consumers to avoid buying fake or inferior goods that are now being marketed as genuine Worsted Shawls.
  • Encourage more families to enter this field of work and inspire the younger generation to do the same.

How Are Worsted Shawls Made?

Long-staple pasture wool from sheep breeds like Teeswaters, Old Leicester Long wool, and Romney Marsh was used to make Worsted fabrics. Instead of carding, pasture wool was cleaned, combed with heated long-tooth metal combs, greased, and then spun. Worsteds were scrubbed during weaving but not filled.

Unlike woollen wool, which is used to knit goods like sweaters, woven wool is often used to create tailored clothing, such as suits. In tropical-weight worsts, air may pass through the fabric thanks to the use of tightly spun, straightened wool and a looser weave. Worsted is also used to make baize, hosiery, apparel, and carpets.

How Does BIS Certify Worsted Shawls?

The product goes through a series and a variety of tests before being granted a license. It is essential that all requirements are met which is only when such a product is declared safe to use. Following are the criteria before a worsted fabric is approved by the BIS-

  • Manufacturing Requirements

Cloth- the cloth must be clean scrubbed and must not contain any form of grease, soap, any fillings or admixture which may result in changing the characteristics of the material by either appearance, weight or feel.

Yarn- The yarn used during its manufacturing shall not contain any admixtures of non-woollen fibres that it complies with the standards set by the BIS. The BIS has also laid down a guided table specifying the approximate count of yarn to be used.

  • Testing Conditions

For the purpose of evaluating whether the material complies with the standard set by the BIS, test specimens may be prepared and tested in the environment that is currently in use. However, in all circumstances of disagreement, the samples must be prepared and analysed in a standard environment in accordance with the cited Indian Standards on test techniques. 

  • Quality factors

The cloth used must conform to the provisions laid down by the BIS regarding the following-

  1. Approximate Count on Yarn
  2. Mass of cloth
  3. Breaking load
  4. Relaxation and shrinkage percentage
  5. pH value of water extract used
  6. Colour fastness and stains
  • Dimensions

When the fabric is measured in accordance with IS 1954: 1990, its length and width must be as agreed upon by the buyer and seller or as reported by the seller, subject to the tolerances laid down by the Ministry of Commerce and Industry of the Government of India. 

  • Sample requirement 

If a sample has been agreed upon and sealed to illustrate or specify the ill-defined features, such as general appearance, feel, and shade, the supply must match the sample in those areas. The buyer and seller must first agree on who will have custody of the sealed sample.

  • Visual Inspection

When examined visually, the fabric should not have any of the serious faults listed below. The number of major faults that are acceptable per unit length or piece must be agreed upon by the buyer and seller.

  • Marking

The shawls shall be mandatorily marked with the information laid down as follows: 

  1. Name of the material and variety No. 
  2. Length (cm) and Width (cm)
  3. Indication of the source of manufacture.

The Standard Mark issued upon certification of the BIS may also be placed on these shawls.

  • Packaging

Unless it is otherwise decided by the buyer and the seller, the packaging of worsted shawl shall be done keeping in mind the following criteria-

  1. Waterproof paper 
  2. Folding box board 
  3. Polyethylene film Hessian (229 g/m) 
  4. Hessian (380 g/m) 
  5. High density polyethylene woven fabric 
  6. Cardboard pieces Wooden or bamboo slats 
  7. Wooden case Steel strips (for bale packing) 
  8. Steel strips (for case packing)

In case of the yarn in bales- The yarn must be bundled into five kilogram-sized bundles. The bundles must be dusted with enough DDT, PDCB, or other appropriate pesticides to ensure protection against insect assault. Each bundle must be wrapped in a polyethylene film or placed in a bag made of jute or cotton thread. The bundles must then be tied three times.

  • Mass

The BIS has laid down specific requirements in order to determine the mass of the fabric-

The fabric must be four specimens of 100 mm X 100 mm from the desiccator and immediately determine each from a sample. Condition all the specimens into their collective mass on a weighing balance in a desiccator charged with saturated the nearest milligram. Solution of sodium nitrate at 27 f 2°C for a period of 24 hours. Post the process one must remove all the specimens. Lastly the mass of the fabric must be calculated in g/m2.

What Is The List Of Major Flaws Laid Down By The BIS?

The BIS has confirmed the following faults that must be looked for before granting a qualification mark to Worsted shawls-

  • There are one or more ends missing along the entire length of the material; there are more than three ends missing at one location and they span more than 60 cm; or there are clearly visible double ends running through the entire piece.
  • Undressed snarls are noticeable over a length longer than 5% of the total length of the item.
  • Smash absolutely disrupts the fabric's texture.
  • A visible cut, tear or hole in the material.
  • Read marks that are clearly visible for a length more than 5% of the piece.
  • A faulty or damaged selvedge that is visible over a length longer than 5% of the piece's length.
  • A weft or skewing
  • Across the width of the cloth, there is a weft crack or one to two missing picks.
  • Due to differences in raw material, count, twist, lustre, colour, and shade, warp or weft bars may be used.
  • More than two parallel, broken, or missing ends that are more than 10 cm apart. 
  • Noticeable weft or warp float in the fabric's body.
  • Fabric with obvious oil or other stain. 
  • The fabric's weave is greasy. 
  • Visibly noticeable slub. 
  • A conspicuous broken pattern. 
  • Gout caused by foreign substances, typically waste lint woven into the cloth. 
  • Prominent selvedge defect. 
  • Significant shading or listing having a gradual change in tone or depth of shade (excluding in selvedge). 
  • Coloured flecks. 
  • Blurred or dark patch. Patchy, streaky or uneven dyeing. 
  • Dye bar.
  • A messy or fuzzy experience

What Are The Documents Required For The BIS Registration Of Worsted Shawls?

  • Proof of residence and identification information for business owners, partners, and directors
  • Company's registration Certificate
  • Company's Certificate of Incorporation
  • A partnership deed in case of a partnership firm
  • GST Certificate
  • MSME Registration Certificate
  • A copy of the unit’s electricity bills 
  • Trademark Registration Documents
  • Machinery used in the manufacturing process from start to end
  • Layout plan of the factory
  • A detailed flowchart of the process followed
  • Information regarding technicians, raw materials and test equipment.
  • In the case of overseas producers, all the necessary documents of an authorised Indian representative must be submitted.

What Is The Procedure To Apply For A BIS Certificate For Worsted Shawls?

  • The applicant must submit form 1. This is needed to submit with the BIS registration fee. This application must be given to the BIS branch under whose jurisdiction the production unit is situated,
  • All relevant documents as discussed above must be submitted along with the application.
  • All the documents submitted by the applicant shall be checked, and if the evaluation is successful, the form shall be forwarded for further scrutiny.
  • The BIS shall conduct a preliminary inspection of the product. This shall be carried out within 15 days post the application submission. The test shall ensure that the applicant’s product meets all the standards, quality and checks set forth by the Bureau of Indian Standards.
  • The sample must be submitted to a Lab recognised by the Bureau of Indian Standards.
  • A BIS License for the product shall only be granted once the product passes relevant standards laid down. 
  • The validity of a license issued to a Worsted Fabric shall be for 1 (One) year. This license can be renewed annually provided there are no changes to any standards.
  • The application fee may on vary as per updated notifications of the BIS.
  • The application would only be accepted if the applicable Indian Standard is suitable for certification if it is for a product for which no licence has been given (on an all-India basis); otherwise, it will be returned together with the application cost. The type of requirements and Marking Clause mentioned in the Indian Standard as well as the presence of testing facilities in the nation shall be taken into consideration when considering suitability for certification. The next course of action is advised.

How Is An Application Rejected?

The application may be rejected due to the following reasons: 

  • Samples are not submitted for testing within 30 days of them being recorded.  
  • Independent testing shows that the samples are defective. (If more than one sample has been drawn to cover various types, grades, etc., and more than 50% of those samples fail, it will be considered that the entire sample failed.
  • Testing facilities not available to the applicant, unless a relaxation is permitted
  • Absence of technical people with the applicant, unless allowed. 
  • Failure to receive acceptance of the marking fees. 
  • Non-receipt of acceptance of STI. 
  • If corrective actions in case of any discrepancy report are not taken within 30 days of issue of such reports 
  • The unit is liable to pay any amount to BIS. 
  • The firm has tampered with documents in connection with the grant or operation of the licence. 
  • The firm has indulged in corrupt practices or applied external pressures in the context of grant or operation of the licence. 

Before rejecting an application, a reasonable opportunity would be given to the applicant of being either heard in person or through a representative on his behalf. Speaking orders of the Head BO shall be recorded for rejection or continuation of the application. The application fee shall not be refunded.

This portion of the site is for informational purposes only. The content is not legal advice. The statements and opinions are the expression of author, not corpseed, and have not been evaluated by corpseed for accuracy, completeness, or changes in the law.


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